Only a week prior, we had cancelled all programing in Mauritius. The team quickly reached out again asking if it would be possible to reconstruct as many programs and classes as possible, moving them to new dates and keeping in mind there would be no guarantees we would be allowed off the ship. Our main contact, Anushka, quickly responded with a phrase that was common in the hundreds of emails that circulated between tour operators, the home office and the ship: “Your message is well received.”

Though I’d never met Anushka, she felt like a dear friend. She and her team worked around the clock to prepare for a visit that may not even happen, and every interaction was kind, upbeat and encouraging. Because of the time difference, I began to use my early mornings on the treadmill to connect with Sara and Kaley in the home office as they were ending their day. Receiving the “hand-off,” I’d move forward with planning, then pass it back to them at the end of my day when they were waking up. A promising agenda started to come together. In Vietnam, we had pulled off fourteen field classes when we had originally planned on nine. Now what was three field classes in Mauritius grew to nine.

The fact that every interaction seemed to convey hope rather than confidence and included the word “if” instead of “when” left an underlying uneasiness, but we were cautiously optimistic. As the sun rose on February 29 and the island came into view, we crossed our fingers and toes and paced the deck. We came alongside, and my stomach butterflies fluttered still knowing we could be denied entry at any point. Then it happened. The first students walked down the gangway. Chris, Ciara, Mom and I grabbed our bags and followed. As we set foot on Mauritian soil, I was swept by a flood of emotions. Tears flowing, we exchanged hugs and absorbed the moment. A local band greeted us with drumming and dancing, and we dodged giant snails on the dirt path to the water taxi.

The warmth, humidity, bright colors and lush flora revealed a tropical paradise. We wandered through the local market, where vendors recognized us as the “Americans from the ship,” and explored the Port Louis Waterfront abundant with restaurants and dodo birds. We returned to the docking area in the afternoon to meet Anushka sharing joy, more hugs, and disbelief that we were actually together! A car and driver took us on an afternoon tour to a local brewery, an inactive volcano, a toy ship building factory, and a rum tasting followed by a couple hours at Flic en Flac Beach. The still waters of the Indian Ocean we had admired from the deck of the ship for so many days were as warm and delightful as we had imagined, but the sharp coral made it difficult to venture in too far. The day passed too quickly, but we returned to the ship grateful for a taste of what was to come, knowing we’d be back.

Because we’d arrived for fueling earlier than originally planned, we had to work around berth availability. This meant leaving Mauritius for two days, then returning on March 3. The ship meandered at sea, giving us unique views of the island, and thanks to a heads up from Captain Kostas, we even caught a glimpse of a small whale spouting. The field team took advantage of the time to celebrate over fine dining, and I kept a close eye on information from home where my dad was undergoing major heart valve surgery.

The days at sea offered much needed time to finalize field classes. Anushka continued to secure commitments from community partners and confirm itineraries, while I liaised with faculty, getting their input and keeping them informed of latest developments. There were a few tense moments, when at 7:30 p.m. on March 2, we received word that plans for Alissa Arp’s Oceanography class fell through. True to form, Anushka went to work and Alissa rallied. By 10 p.m. we had a plan, and with the help of some amazing colleagues on the ship, the field class the next day was a resounding success. This was just one example of the incredibly talented faculty on this voyage who stepped up to every challenge put before them.

Being in Mauritius was a bit surreal, given the uncertainty of our arrival and the fact that we had diverted away from Port Louis on my previous voyage in 2017. It was a very special destination, and we felt so lucky to spend five more days there. Each day we slept on the ship, dispatched programs and classes in the morning, then headed out to explore the island. With Ciara, we visited the Botanical Garden and Grand Baie in the north, then travelled south adding Daniel and Chris to the adventure to see the Chamarel Waterfall and the Seven Colored Earth. A deluge thwarted our visit to Grand Bassin, but as we drove west, the sun emerged to offer a gorgeous afternoon at Blue Bay where we swam in the warm, crystal clear water of the lagoon and viewed coral and brightly colored fish in a spectacular underwater world beneath a glass-bottom boat. Another extraordinary day we traveled to Trou Aux Biches with Kelly and Ellie to swim with the sea turtles. These impressive creatures, about the size of a car tire, moved gracefully around our boat swimming underneath me then circling back, teasing us to follow. Snorkels and masks allowed a unique view of fluorescent fish of all shapes and sizes darting in and out of the of intricate designs of coral. One evening, Mom and I found a nearby hotel with powerful internet as niece, Georgia, was playing in the state basketball tournament in Nebraska. Over Mauritian margaritas, we followed the Loomis Athletics Twitter feed and text updates from Becky feeling grateful both to be where we were and to be connected to home.

Mom and I participated in two organized field programs while in Mauritius. The first took us kayaking through the beautiful mangroves surrounding Ile d’Ambre, named for the “ambergris” (bile duct secretions from whales) found in the area. We learned about the vital role of mangroves in the marine ecosystem, swam in a secluded lagoon, and explored the island’s hiking trails.

The second program was nothing short of magical. When planning for SAS classes and programs, Anushka developed an internship program for Mauritian students who are studying to work in the tour industry. Capitalizing on a unique opportunity for intercultural connection between college students, the interns helped organize excursions and served as guides for our tours. On our final evening, this group of about 20 students planned a “Traditional Mauritian Barbecue and Dance” extravaganza. By a bonfire on the beach, the students presented a program about Mauritian history and customs including a fashion show and musical performance by the “Mauritian Bob Marley.” Passion and pride were evident as they described a culture that embraces its African, Chinese, Indian, and Creole ancestry and sees no division among those who ascribe to Hindu, Christian, Muslim, Buddhist or other beliefs. They prepared a variety of Mauritian dishes to share, then everyone danced. SASers learned traditional dances called Sega and Seggae, and Mom was called up front as the winner of the best dancer award. Joy and camaraderie filled the air, and no one wanted it to end.

Mom and I spent our final day in Mauritius leisurely enjoying Port Louis. It was the first day without sun, so we shopped for souvenirs on the waterfront and sheltered from a deluge at the Flying Dodo Brewery. Back at the ship, we greeted students as they returned from their adventures and said our final good-byes to Anushka and crew. Mom had helped me dispatch some trips while Chris and Ciara took some much-needed time away and had become a favorite among the guides. Grateful for the many gifts this country gave us, we boarded the MV World Odyssey, a place that had become home, looking forward to reconnecting with people who had become family and ready to face new challenges ahead.