Buzzed by our day-long stay in Hawaii, voyagers returned to the ship full of stories. Enthusiasm appeared to be undampened by the rainy, windy day. Some reflected on a somber tour to Pearl Harbor while others laughed about sliding through the mud on a rainy waterfall hike. Talk about coffee, chocolate, pineapple, and Jack Johnson filled the halls. We were all refreshed and ready for another 12 days at sea.

The field office team resumed our preparations for programs and classes in Japan while faculty and staff also worked to transition the community from reflecting on their first cultural experience to the next. The clouds persisted and the sea churned giant swells that raised and dropped the stern of ship sliding plates across tables and opening drawers and closet doors. The Lido restaurant seemed more like a ball room as we all danced with the pitch and roll as we moved through the buffet line.

Besides work and classes, our days are filled with programming just like on any college campus. The student life staff is busy helping students form organizations and plan activities. Fitness groups, from Abs classes and Insanity to Tai Chi begin at 6 a.m. and are scheduled throughout the day. A ship-wide talent show revealed the incredible gifts of students and staculty including vocal and instrumental music, comedy skits, dance, and poetry. The daily evening seminar offers interesting topics from our amazingly talented faculty including star gazing, impact of Agent Orange, poetry, intercultural communication, and more. Before we arrive at a port additional presentations share information on logistics and culture to help us be better travelers.

Mom and I also have taken advantage of opportunities for special events on the ship. We participated in a tour of the bridge where all the action happens. It was fascinating to see the equipment and people who get us to our destinations safely. On the day of our tour, radar indicated the nearest ship was about 26 miles away. With cold temps settling in as we moved closer to Japan, a group of staculty women planned an afternoon of pampering in the spa on deck 3. We enjoyed a warm pool, sauna, copper bath, massages on warm stone recliners, and mini facials.

With no shortage of things to do, the community continues to be the best part of the voyage. While we all share a love for traveling and an ability to embrace the unexpected, the diversity of voyager background is rich. Living and learning together builds deep and lasting relationships as there are so many opportunities for interaction and conversation. Capitalizing on this, the field office team has a routine of finishing the day in the faculty/staff lounge (the Fritz) for FoFo (Friends of the Field Office) to unwind and debrief with our fellow voyagers. In the Fritz, we often find lifelong learners whose presence creates a mutigenerational learning environment that is extraordinary. I’ve appreciated being able to get to know this group better through Mom’s job as Assistant Coordinator for LLLs.

One of mom’s job duties is to organize and support “ship families.” Staculty members are paired with a group of 6 to 9 students who will be part of a family throughout the voyage as a way to develop closer connections and support. We have a delightful group of thoughtful and caring students who seem excited to have a “mom” and a “grandma!”

A unique aspect of traveling west across the pacific are the often daily time changes. It becomes a challenge to remember what day and time it actually is! Eventually, we crossed the international dateline at which time we just skipped January 16 altogether. It was shortly after this we began hearing rumblings that we may have to miss our visit to China due to the Corona virus. The rumor mill is active here, but soon the home office chimed in that they were looking at the potential risks. The repercussions of missing the port are immense. Besides the disappointment, it is a massive endeavor to reschedule field programs and classes, to “undo” all the plans in China, and to manage all the questions and concerns from both voyagers and their loved ones at home.

As the number of confirmed cases in China rose, there was an official announcement of diversion. The blow was likely softened because it came on the day of our arrival in Japan. After nearly a month at sea with only a day stop in Hawaii, land was a welcomed site. We came alongside in the early morning to a giant welcome sign and a pop band playing on the pier.

Memories of our magical visit to Japan three years ago came flooding back. The familiarity of the port terminal and the tram stop was comforting. After dispatching all the field classes and programs, Mom and I, along with the rest of the field office team, made our way to the Sannomiya station in Kobe. Japan. Apparent was the juxtaposition between bustling and gentle, active yet calm that captured my heart in 2017. Stop one included conveyor belt sushi – yummy except for the fermented soybeans that I thought was a peanut sauce. It’s an impressive system as the most popular items pass by your table on a conveyor belt. You take what you want, or you can order from the touchpad at the table and have your special dish delivered by a little electronic train. Plates are color-coded and stacked to calculate the bill. Wandering about town, we discovered a beautiful garden and shrine, laughed till our cheeks hurt at a game room with a photo booth, and relaxed at a local brewery.

The train system in Japan is impressive. Trains are clean, spacious, quiet, timely, and fast. For someone who speaks no Japanese, understanding which train to take where, can be a bit of a challenge. Fortunately, every single person we encountered was so kind and helpful. I resorted to charades and Pictionary, but we were able to activate our JapanRail passes and make our way to Hiroshima.

But for the Peace Memorial Park and the ruins of Genbaku Dome, one might not ever know about this city’s heartbreaking past. Ancient castles and shrines that were destroyed by the atomic bomb have been reconstructed. The city itself bustles with commerce and tourist activity. Yet, they have done an amazing job of sharing important lessons from the tragedy of the atomic bomb. The museum and memorials capture the stories of families whose losses are unfathomable. Visiting was intense and heavy, but so important. I believe every human being, particularly those who seek to be in positions of power should be required to visit this place and these people.

Almost 30 years ago, I had the privilege of meeting Toshimi who was an exchange student in my high school in Overton, Nebraska. For the second time in three years, Toshimi and her husband, Kenji, made the 4 hour trip to meet up with us during our time in Japan. We enjoyed “okanamiyaka,” a dish unique to Hiroshima that is similar to, but very different from, American pizza. It was absolutely delicious as we reminisced and learned about their lives as teachers in Japan. The next day, Toshimi and Kenji took us by car and then ferry boat to Miyajima, an island that is home to the Itsukushima shrine. Scattered about the island are deer who beg for food and steal entry tickets from those who aren’t paying attention. The Miyajima brewery honors their significance with t-shirt advertising “deer beer.”

Good-byes, as always, were sad. It is difficult to express the impact of Toshimi and Kenji’s kindness and generosity on our experience. I look forward to visiting their home in the fall. After a pleasant ride on the bullet train back to Kobe, we joined some fellow voyagers for a dinner of Kobe beef. Not unlike the meat from my niece, Georgia’s, 4-H calves, it is so tender and flavorful. A very special dining experience.

The next day, we made our way by train to Kyoto with the goal of seeing the Golden Pavilion. The aroma of waffles, pastries and other mouthwatering treats filled the air in the train station. More charades and Pictionary landed us on a local city bus that dropped us at the temple in the pouring rain. The cloudy skies made for excellent photographic opportunities and giggles as we navigated through the multitude of umbrellas. Because of the rain, we made our way back to Kobe soon after and found some scrumptious noodles and soup to warm up before returning to the ship.

I felt tearful as we departed Japan. There is something about this country …

Instead of taking time to share with other voyagers about the impact of our time in Japan, the field office was instantly immersed in mitigating the complications related to diverting from China. The decision was a wise one, but the impact was significant. For me and my dedicated colleagues in the home office, recreating eight 8-hour field classes while in drastically different time zones was an extraordinary feat. We were blessed with an amazing tour operator in Vietnam who immediately began offering ideas and opportunities to replace the classes in China we had spent so much time planning. I spent my days meeting with faculty and emailing with the tour operator and the home office. Simultaneously, Chris and Ciara were navigating the same process for field programs (excursions that voyagers can book that are not connected to academic classes).

As we continued toward Vietnam, the temperatures gradually rose. The field team was spending countless hours in our small office, but tried to be purposeful about taking some breaks on deck 9 to enjoy the sunshine. Each morning, a small group of early risers have begun to gather at the stern to watch breathtaking sunrises before breakfast. Many more make their way to the bow to see equally beautiful sunsets. During one mid-day break, Mom and I spotted two flying fish escaping the wake of the ship. Another day after working sunrise to sunset and feeling exhausted, Ciara and I received a special invitation to have lunch with the captain. It was a much needed boost as we joined Captain Kostas, his officers, and some other voyagers for a formal 4-course meal on the patio outside the bridge. We returned to work knowing we are in such good hands and feeling confident that no matter what, with this team, all would be well.

January 2020

Embarkation

Approaching the pier in our rental car, we caught our first sight of the MV World Odyssey and a wave of mixed emotions swept over me.  I felt excitement for the adventure ahead, nostalgia for the Spring 17 voyage shared with my family, and hesitation at the thought of leaving them behind.

The kids boarded the ship to help me move in. As we explored and reminisced, we were greeted by members of the ship’s crew, many of whom have sailed dozens of voyages. Shockingly, most remembered us by name.

The ship’s familiarity was comforting. Retired from its starring role as the “love boat” in a German TV series, it is a luxurious vessel with opulent décor that makes for a quirky university setting. We found our cabin on the 7^th deck port forward (left, front). It is just big enough to be comfortable and challenge our creative storage skills, and we have a large window that opens wide to let in the sea air.

Orientation began soon after the kids departed. Over the course of 3 days, faculty and staff (called “staculty”) prepared to welcome nearly 600 students to our floating campus. We learned both ship protocol and university protocol. We had our first life boat drill during which we donned our life jackets which are stored under our beds and mustered on deck 6.

As Assistant Director for Faculty Led Programs, I help plan all field classes and liaise with the faculty who lead them. There are approximately 70 field classes, which are the experiential, in-country component required for each course taught on the ship. In this role, I was on both the teaching and learning ends of the orientation. I share a cozy little office with three of the dearest humans on earth, Chris Churma and Ciara Cole. While we work closely as the “field team,” their focus is on field programs which are the optional excursions in each port that can be purchased. All together we will dispatch over 300 different programs.

My mom is working as the Assistant Coordinator for Lifelong Learners and was busy preparing for 26 non-traditional students to embark while learning her way around the ship. Most of the original group will travel the entire itinerary, and there will be 25 more who join for different legs of the voyage along the way.

Departure

Excitement mounted on the evening of January 3 as the engine began to hum. The crew went about the business of preparing to set sail. ISE staff (Institute for Shipboard Education, the organization that operates Semester at Sea) and loved ones disembarked. Chris’ position as Registrar at Colorado State University afforded him the opportunity to stay aboard to support the Academic Advisor while we sailed to Ensenada. It was a special gift to have that time with him.

The water was calm to Ensenada, and I was reminded that the best sleep I have ever had was at sea. The gentle rocking and comfy beds are like sleeping on a cloud. The next morning while still dark, we made way to the 9^th deck to watch the lights of Ensenada grow closer. We came alongside as the sun rose and the sea lions barked their welcome greeting.

Due to an old maritime law, the Jones Act, paying passengers can’t sail from one U.S. port to another on a non-US vessel. So while Semester at Sea Staculty can board in San Diego, students and lifelong learners are bussed across the border to embark in Ensenada. There was excited anticipation of the arrival of the first bus. From the outside deck, we watched the smiling, if nervous, faces of students as they made their way through security and onto the ship. Suddenly the ship was buzzing with excitement, as everyone found their rooms, met roommates, and perused orientation schedules. Mid-afternoon, anyone not sailing beyond Ensenada had to disembark, including Chris. In our 33 years of marriage, we’ve never been more than a week apart, and I knew he was headed home to send our oldest son, Will, off to basic training for the Air Force. So many emotions swept over me as we said good-bye. I watched from my cabin window as he and our friend, Sara, waved from the pier capturing every last second until the lifeboat drill alert sounded. We grabbed our life jackets and made our way to our muster station.

Rolling and Pitching

Clouds and a rolling sea characterized most of the days between Ensenada and Hawaii. When the ship “rolls,” it rocks side to side. For the most part, the rocking was gentle and the rainy days made it easier to spend much needed time in my office preparing for Hawaii. Mom and I settled into a routine navigating around one another to get ready for the day in our cute little cabin. We try to get to the gym by 5 a.m. Six treadmills look out the aft of the ship on deck 6. There are also three elliptical machines, and some weights, as well as some spinning bikes on the outside deck. There is a pretty consistent early morning crew of five or six staculty. Our workout is followed by watching the sunrise on deck 9 with a warm cup of coffee from our Aeropress, then breakfast in the Lido restaurant. When weather allows, we eat at outside tables surrounded by ocean and sky.

There are three restaurants on the ship. The Lido on deck 9 and the Berlin on deck 6 serve breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Each has its own “vibe’ and people begin to identify themselves as being in the “Lido camp” or the “Berlin camp.” The food is served buffet style and is quite good. The third restaurant is the Four Seasons. It is a small venue reserved for fine dining that can be purchased separately. Mom and I enjoyed a gourmet meal in the Four Seasons with some ISE staff and site visitors who disembarked in Hawaii, including champagne and four mouthwatering courses. Regardless of the venue, the staff pampers us. There are many who were here during our last voyage. Among them, Perry and Linval take extra good care of us in the Lido. They make us feel special preparing our beverages just the way we like and having them waiting at the table when we arrive. Linval will even offer an occasional serenade.

After breakfast we make our way to Global Studies, a course that is attended by every voyager. It focuses on global citizenship, intercultural competency, port country discovery, and oceans. The course is co-taught by three faculty who are brilliant, engaging and fun. To date, the rest of my day has been spent in my office scrambling to be sure things are in order for our first ports. Our team has an incredible synergy, so we are able to put in long hours and have a blast doing it. Part of Mom’s job is planning and co-leading an educational seminar that follows Global Studies for the Lifelong Learners. She spends the rest of the day working on projects together with the LLL Coordinator, Kathy. We may or may not meet up for lunch or dinner, but always reconnect for the evening seminar, a series of presentations by staculty on topics that highlight the diverse areas of expertise among us. Most days also include winding down for a bit in the Fritz, a lounge at the back of the ship reserved for staculty.

Before our first port, students had the opportunity to attend classes and, just like at their home universities, go through a drop/add process. Unlike at home, in order to accomplish this task, all wifi on the ship was shut down and directed to four computers in the library. With the ISE home office and CSU Registrar’s office on-call at home, students rotated through a series of stations staffed by staculty as we processed their requests. It was fun to rally together to managing a task made challenging by our “at sea” status.

As the Hawaiian Islands came into view on a map that is projected onto TVs in our rooms, we attended our first “Logistical Pre-Port,” a time when the leadership team shares information to prepare the shipboard community for our time ashore. The excitement was palpable as we learned the plans and protocol for immigration and disembarkation, as well as the announcement that the Mayor of Honolulu was declaring January 11 Semester at Sea day.

The stop in Hawaii is just for one day to refuel as we make our way across the vast Pacific, so unlike other ports, in order to disembark, students are required to participate in a field class or program in Hawaii. During a rainy early morning arrival, we watched from deck 9 as we sailed past Diamond Head and came alongside not far from Aloha Tower. Chris, Ciara and I began the process of dispatching over 500 individuals on a multitude of programs and classes. At the same time, I was on the phone with our tour operator working out some last minute complications.

Once the immigration process was completed, groups met in classrooms and prepared for the day. Mom and I led a field program that took us to the north side of Oahu for a beach clean-up and barbecue. Our busses were greeted by Kim and Jack Johnson, a special surprise for voyagers. Kim and Jack run the Kokua Hawaii Foundation which often partners with another foundation called Sustainable Coastlines. After sharing about the great work they are doing with their foundation, Kim, Jack and others affiliated with the foundations led the group to the beach. Though it was a rainy, blustery day, we collected hundreds of pounds of microplastics that had washed ashore. While that seems significant, each wave only brought more such that it was difficult to tell we had been there at all. We had a delicious lunch at a local farm to table restaurant, Kahuku Farms and spent a lovely afternoon learning from local volunteers about the important work they are doing to raise awareness about the plastic crisis. After a delicious, homemade dinner we said good-byes and returned to the ship. It was an honor to work alongside and learn from Kim, Jack and the many others who are so passionate and dedicated to this very important cause.

Pitching and Rolling

Exhausted, we both fell asleep before setting sail. When we awoke the next morning, we had left Oahu far behind. There are twelve days at sea between Oahu and Kobe, Japan on this voyage, which provides a unique opportunity to build relationships and develop routines. Following each port, staculty lead reflection groups with students to process their experiences in-country. It was fun to meet the students who will be a part of our group for the rest of the semester and hear about the things that have impacted them most, both on the ship and in Hawaii. We also are hosting a “ship family” of nine students. There are nearly 300 students participating in this program and it is Mom and Kathy’s job to organize it. For all the complications with technology and logistics, the kick-off went without a hitch.

The captain came on the intercom to announce that we should prepare for rough seas. We had all adjusted pretty well to the rolling motion, but as the swell grew to above 12 feet, the ship turned into them leading to more pitch than roll. The motion on the ship now is back to front and is significant. Sitting on the back deck, the horizon completely disappears as bow dips and the stern rises. It’s a new kind of balancing act moving forward and back rather than side to side. Creaks and groans emerge from the bowels of the ship as it ventures through the crashing waves.

Since leaving San Diego, we have set our clocks back six times. On January 15, we crossed the International Date Line and jumped ahead to January 17. We heard the 16^th was a great day, so while we were sorry to miss it, 25 hour days are fantastic – well worth having to skip a day here and there! It can get a bit confusing, though, so a common question among voyagers currently is, “now what time (or day) is it?” We have also been blessed with sunny, warm days. Students work at tables outside on the Lido Deck, drinking smoothies and taking study breaks in the pool.

Two days until Japan, the energy has shifted toward making plans for time ashore. Before my friend, Sanjay, left the ship in Hawaii, we marveled at what an impossible notion it is to create a university on a ship and sail it around the world, and yet, it works. Rolling or pitching, it is a blessing to be “Making Waves” as a part of this amazing program.

Coming Soon