Not only was Cyprus an extraordinary port of call, but our community also managed to return to the ship with few positive COVID cases. With two successful ports behind us, the idea that we might complete this voyage started to feel like a real possibility. Per our protocol, positive cases were isolated and close contacts quarantined on board. Staculty and crew mobilized to provide support for them personally and academically, learning new things every step of the way. With five days at sea till the next port, we began to prepare for Croatia. Sailing through the crisp, blue Aegean Sea, we paused near the island of Crete then meandered through the Straits of Corfu where snowcapped mountains of Albania on one side and stunning beaches of Corfu on the other ushered us into the Ionian and Adriatic Seas.

As we moved toward warmer weather, we felt some sense of normalcy as more time outdoors could be enjoyed, although damage from months of dry dock during the pandemic kept Decks 8 and 9 aft closed for repairs. Evenings were filled with activities and events, and students organized an open mic night that left me in awe. On stage, they sang and danced, and we all cheered their talents.

The business of the VoLT continued and two nights before arriving in Croatia we gathered in the Captain’s quarters for a call with the home office. While many countries were beginning to relax COVID requirements, neither Morocco nor Ireland were signaling any intention to open to cruise ships. As such, the decision had been made to eliminate those ports of call, extend our time in Spain and Portugal, and add Denmark to the itinerary. We held a community meeting to share the news. Passengers were, of course, disappointed. Some were angry, others were sure they knew a better solution, and a few were convinced it was a plot by the establishment to steal their money. But most knew when they signed up for this voyage that nothing was certain. They accepted that itinerary changes were expected in these days of COVID.

We moved forward with our pre-port routines finalizing arrival details, creating the green sheet, and planning the Logistical Pre-Port Presentation. Chris invited some students to emcee the Logistical Pre-Port. They cracked jokes and hammed it up, creating a special night. We came alongside a night early as the captain anticipated high winds. From our berth, we could see layers of homes and small shops constructed of stone steeply stacked on the hill behind the terminal revealing a hint of the history we would encounter during our visit. Disembarkation the next morning was efficient and quick. Kaley, Luke and I met for coffee with our tour operators who were so excited for our visit, the first cruise ship in Dubrovnik in 2022.

Both Chris and I were on-call for Day 1 which required staying near the ship, so we joined the Lindas and Dr. Mark at a hotel just across from the port gate for a lunch of octopus legs, black risotto and other traditional Croatian dishes before hunkering down to get some work done. Just after dark, we headed into the old town. By night, the city walls were striking and narrow stone streets inviting. As we were in the off-season for an area that depends on tourists, it was quiet except for SASers milling about. Enticed by a proprietor offering delicious sea bass and a cozy patio on a small side street, we began to review the menu when Chris’ on-call phone rang. A student was in distress and Chris needed to attend to the issue. The Lindas and I moved ahead with our meal, receiving updates from students seated next to us who were involved in a texting group about the problem. Too much alcohol combined with immaturity and poor judgement had led to a stressful situation that derailed the evening for many, but eventually and due to the commitment and diligence of the SAS team, all was well. Chris accompanied the student and her friends back to the ship. Because he had missed dinner, Chris and I escaped briefly to a cute little pizza place just outside the port for a quick respite before spending most of the night helping the residence life staff as they managed other student issues.

Despite the rough start, our time in Croatia surpassed all expectations. Our visit coincided with the local Festivity of St. Blaise, so the streets that were so quiet awakened with festivities. Bolstered with coffee and Boreks – mouthwatering, flaky pastries filled with cheese – we spent the day exploring the city walls. Climbing high above Dubrovnik, the vastness of the structure was awe inspiring. Through gaps between clay tile rooftops, we spied hidden gardens and clotheslines, playgrounds and basketball courts, evidence of modern life lived within ancient dwellings. Views from towers and overlooks once meant to protect the community from invasions inspired stops to gaze and take photos. As we encountered other groups of SASers, we shared stories and excitement about our visit. We found a small bar secluded among the rocks at the base of one wall and stopped to dip our feet in the sea and share an early cocktail. Later that day we met friends, Heather, Paul, Heidi and John at a cute little wine bar in the center of old town. The owner explained that he makes the wine himself and sells it locally. He also happened to be the pilot who brought our ship alongside two days earlier.

The next morning, we hopped on a bus with 15 fellow voyagers for a field program. The half hour drive followed the Dalmatian Coast north to the small villages of Ston and Mali Ston on the Pelješac Peninsula. Here we hiked more medieval walls built in 1333 and visited the oldest salt pans in Europe learning about Mediterranean Sea salt extraction. A boat ride across Mali Ston Bay afforded us the opportunity to taste the most delicious, fresh oysters from a farm that has been in the same family for many generations then share a meal at a restaurant run by the same family.

We set out early the next morning to hike the Mt. Srd trail to Fort Imperial. A rocky trail with sharp switchbacks that began in the shelter of pine trees then gave way to wide open views of Dubrovnik and the Adriatic on one side and Bosnia and Montenegro on the other. Typical of Croatia’s Catholic tradition, stations of the cross marked the way. On our return to the ship, we took a walking detour along the coast to a small beach where we listened to the waves and Face Timed with Olivia in England. It was such a peaceful, sunny spot, the time to leave came too soon. We dried our feet and collected some sea rocks, appreciating a small diversion together before embracing the challenges that lay ahead.