A wind turbine lined landscape guided the way to the port in Copenhagen. With Chris laid up and no time to research, Denmark was filled with spontaneous adventures. Once the ship cleared, we had our standard first morning meeting with the local tour operator. Luis, who was originally from Venezuela, lived just across the border in Malmo, Sweden. He had been running a successful tour company for many years but took a big hit during COVID. He was so excited we were there and bent over backwards to help us feel welcome. On our way to a local coffee shop, he stopped the car to offer directions to students who were walking into town. We even picked up Ursula and Volker and drove them to their Air B&B. After reviewing our field excursions, I decided to explore the area near our port. It was peaceful walking solo through the gardens lined with fountains and trees. Not far was the bronze Little Mermaid statue based on the Hans Christian Anderson fairy tale and the Polar Bear with Cubs statue that has bullet holes shot by a German soldier during the occupation of Denmark during World War II. With plenty of work looming, my afternoon ended perfectly back at the coffee shop with my laptop sitting at the window overlooking the Sound connecting the Baltic and North Seas.

Though disappointing not to share Copenhagen with Chris, other travel companions made the port stay special. I spent a fabulous first day with Bob and Celeste Kling. We met along the waterfront in Nyhavn. Just as depicted in postcards and paintings, brightly colored row homes stood alongside cafes and bars with patio dining next to a canal filled with restored wooden sailing ships and modern canal tour boats. After coffee and conversation, we began wandering the city. First, we explored the 17^th century Round Tower. Light reflected through windows onto white walls and archways as we wound up the stone equestrian staircase to a beautiful view of rooftops across the city. We examined a unique exhibit entitled, “On the Loo with the Poet,” that highlighted a privy built within the walls that was said to be used by authors and poets who were working in the building’s library, and we peered down the tower’s hollow core to the ground below. At the top, an exhibit celebrated Hans Christian Anderson who lived in Nyhavn and wrote many of his stories in the tower’s library (or perhaps in the privy)! In the courtyard below, we stumbled upon a group of SAS lifelong learners, including the Lindas, at a Danish hotdog stand. Though typically not a big sausage fan, this hot dog with its crusty bun, mustard, fried onions and pickled cucumber was the best I’ve ever eaten. Refueled, we crossed town for another spectacular view, this time accessed by a staircase circling the outside of the Church of our Savior. We climbed steep steps and ladders through the bell tower to a first level balcony. Then Bob led the ascent up a staircase winding around the outside of the spire which narrowed to an end and a point at the top and revealed square courtyards with gardens and swing sets in the neighborhoods below. Returning to solid ground, we met Michael, Sheila and Stepanka at a sweet little restaurant called Amalie where we shared local cheese and fish served on traditional blue Danish dinnerware with white wine and steam beer.

After the most lovely day, full of gratitude for Bob and Celeste and our friendship that began on our 2017 voyage, we parted ways when they met up with local friends. As I mapped my way back to the ship, I realized I was very close to Freetown Christiana. This self-governing “hippie commune” is known for its anarchist ways and cannabis trade. Walls and brightly colored graffiti marked the entrance to a different world way outside my comfort zone. I walked along the dirt pedestrian alleys past shops selling souvenirs and drug paraphernalia, snapped a few photos and moved on. Not wanting to miss an opportunity to be a part of the most bike friendly city in the world, I downloaded the DonkeyRide app and jumped on “James.” DonkeyRide names all its bikes to make it easy to identify the one you choose. I pedaled James over and around canals and through neighborhoods to meet some SASers at Reffen, a magical street food market with dozens of stands selling organic food from around the world. As it began to get dark and we were walking home, Amy and Kaley came by on their DonkeyRide bikes.  I hopped on the front of Amy’s, and she muscled our way down the street in search of another bike. Much to Amy’s relief, we soon found “Isabelle” and the three of us rode over the canal past Nyhavn and the Little Mermaid to our home on the ship.

I spent another magnificent day walking and talking with Taeko Kelly, one of our incredibly talented resident directors. Chris joined us at a nearby coffee shop for breakfast then returned to the ship while Taeko and I wandered. We shopped a bit, stopped for tea and chocolates, and solved world problems while solidifying a forever friendship.

I was on field duty in Copenhagen, so my mornings were spent dispatching and visiting with Luis. Because Chris couldn’t walk far, Luis was so kind to take him on a short driving tour of the city and then to one of Luis’ favorite restaurants called Vita. Here we explored the traditional Danish Smorrebrod, made with dense, malty rye bread, creamy rich butter, and a variety of toppings like fish, avocado, or meatballs that are intricately layered. These open-faced sandwiches are not only delicious, but they are also works of art.

Chris’ rest and Dr. Elizabeth’s cabin calls paid off as the swelling in his leg went down, so on our last night, he was able to taxi to the Pescatarian restaurant where we met Liz and Marvel. We hadn’t planned on fancy dining, but it turned out this restaurant served a set menu of four courses with wine pairings. The food was incredible and the plating exquisite as the chef described each course before it was served.

Our last day in Copenhagen was cold and wet and windy. What better place to spend such a day than the Happiness Museum?! Dan, Lisa, the Lindas, Phill and I enjoyed learning about Scandinavia’s high happiness ratings and the research behind it. After lunch, the rain subsided, and we walked back in search of one final Danish pastry. We warmed up with coffee and treats at a café Mom and I had found on a previous morning and relished this special time with extraordinary people in the happiest country in the world.