Despite the irresponsibility of some students, we shockingly only had one positive COVID case which ensured we would be allowed to disembark in Valletta. With only 3 days at sea ahead, we quickly left Croatia behind and immersed ourselves in preparations for Malta. Chris’ co-dean, Bob Kling, disembarked in Dubrovnik. Because he stepped into the dean role at the last minute, he had obligations in Colorado to manage before returning to the voyage in March. With a strong support team in Heather Matthews and Cindy Zomchek, and Bob’s involvement from a distance, Chris would manage the on-ship Academic Dean role in addition to his responsibilities as Assistant Executive Dean. The field team finalized details for our in-port excursions and classes, held a preparation meeting for the trip leaders, organized our pre-port presentation and completed the green sheet. Chris attended the daily Captain’s meeting and I joined for the pre-port officers’ meeting. We shared Maltese appetizers in the Chappy and set aside an evening for specialty dining with the Lindas and friend Harlee. While daily meals are served buffet style in the Berlin or Lido restaurants, voyagers can reserve specialty dining in the Four Seasons. Crew who typically wait on us in the dining areas take turns offering 5-star service during these six course meals. Not only is the food and service delicious, but it’s also fun to see the students dining together dressed to the nines and enjoying royal treatment.

It was early morning when wove our way around peninsulas with ancient forts into Grand Harbor to come alongside in Valletta. Maltese health officials boarded the ship, and we called voyagers to present a vaccination QR code that they had been instructed to obtain while in Croatia. The process went smoothly for most, but for a handful who had not downloaded their codes, panic set in that they may not get to disembark in Malta. The leadership team stationed volunteers in the Lido restaurant to help about 50 voyagers use spotty internet to log-in and complete the extensive application. With moments to spare, the final student received confirmation and rushed to the deck to be approved.

At 17 miles long and 9 miles wide, Malta is the tenth smallest country in the world. Founded in the 26^th century, the capital city of Valletta, is a Unesco World Heritage City. Narrow streets climbing from the sea to the town center at the top of the hill are lined with simple limestone buildings supporting brightly colored Maltese balconies, ornate churches and cathedrals, and elaborate statues of Catholic saints. When feeling ambitious, we climbed the many stairs to the top but could also take a glass elevator to the Upper Barrakka Gardens above the ship. Interspersed among local markets and souvenir shops were American and European clothing and restaurant chains. Old Town buzzed as preparations were being made for the Feast of St. Paul’s Shipwreck, a national Maltese holiday celebrating the patron saint of Malta who healed the sick and brought Christianity to the island. Though the traditional celebration with feasting in the streets and a processional carrying a giant statue of Saint Paul through the crowds would be replaced with a ticketed sit-down affair due to COVID, everyone was excited for the event.

We walked miles exploring side streets, tasting pastizzis stuffed with mushy peas or ricotta cheese, and sampling Cisk beers. The splendor of St. John’s Cathedral was awe-inspiring with vaulted ceilings intricately embellished in gold, exquisite marble floors and stone carvings. Within the cathedral we were moved by Caravaggio’s The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist. I was captivated by this magnificent painting that was simultaneously beautiful and disturbing. One night while walking, we ran into Lew and Mary Ann Cutter on a mission to find a good restaurant serving the Maltese national dish, rabbit stew. Intrigued, we joined them, navigating off the beaten path down narrow stone stairs to Nenu the Artisan Baker. It was fun to eat at a less touristy venue and the food was delicious, even the rabbit.

Our field program took us on a 40-minute ferry ride to explore the island of Gozo. Smaller and more rural, Gozo is said to be the mythical home of Calypso in Homer’s Odyssey. Passing through almond trees beginning to bloom, we explored the prehistoric Ġgantija Temples. With structures and artifacts dating back 5500 years, it’s no surprise that it is another UNESCO World Heritage site. After lunch at a local restaurant, we toured the Citadel in the capital city of Victoria and while wandering the surrounding area succumbed to a sweet woman selling handmade sweaters for charity.

Nearly every Maltin we encountered encouraged us to go to Mdina, so one morning we bused with the Linda’s to the walled city north of Valletta. Tightly packed knee to knee in a carriage drawn by a horse named Dennis, the four of us toured the village to the clip clop of hooves against stone streets. We watched a wedding party emerge from a lavish ceremony at St. Paul’s Cathedral, and we shared a cold beverage with Henry Luttikhuizen and Sandra Sgoutas-Emch, SAS faculty who we found souvenir shopping. On a whim, Chris hailed a taxi and asked him to “take us somewhere.” The kind driver delivered us to Dingli Cliffs, the highest point on the island where we took in beautiful views of the Mediterranean before returning to Valletta.

Needing a quiet get away, Chris and I made our way to Marsaxlokk on our final day in Malta. The harbor in this small fishing village was filled with brightly colored boats and the nearby boardwalk lined with souvenir stands and seafood cafes. We walked on the beach, being careful to avoid dozens of baby jellyfish rolling with the tide before visiting St. Peter’s Pool. Here, a series of small inlets surrounded by limestone created deep pools of crystal-clear water reflecting varying shades of blue. The view was stunning and rejuvenating, a high point in an already wonderful outing. We ended our escape at a quiet wine bar on a tiny side street in Valletta sharing a toast of gratitude that we get to live this life. Walking back to the ship, we heard band music playing in the distance. A security guard let us sneak past the barriers just in time to see the giant statue of St. Paul being carried through the crowd. As Malta had given us so much over the last days, we decided this was a sign of a little extra protection from its shipwrecked patron saint as we awaited the safe return of our voyagers to the ship.